June 13 - Malawi: Steps Campsite on Lake Malawi
The Aussies on an early-morning swim
We actually got to sleep in today, and didn't get up until 7:30AM. It was cloudy and overcast, butt Lake Malawi is beautiful. We were warned in the US about these parasites that - while swimming - can get into your intestines and wreak havoc, so Jon and I have been mentally prepared to stay away from all inland bodies of water. The funny thing is to hear the four South Africans on the tour talk about these parasites. For them, it's like an allergy attack: something you probably get at least once a year, you take some medicine, and you get better. They were very amused at how concerned the rest of us were. Still, Jon and I won't be swimming today.
Wood Market
After breakfast, we drove to one of the local markets. Brendan the guide took us to the wood-working market, which was incredible. It's a small stretch of road where vendors have set up rudimentary booths out of branches and reeds. There were about 20 booths, and their eyes lit up when we drove up. The products were basically the same genre: coasters, bowls, cups, utensils, necklaces, chairs, tables. But each booth had a slightly different variation in the artistry. It was amazing to watch them work. Jon was in heaven because he got to bargain for everything we purchased. We bought some necklaces, a frame, a bowl, and some utensils.
The Aussies each bought a chess table. It's small round board - about the size of a large dinner plate - supported by three crisscrossed legs. Because the vendor was short on supplies, we sat and helped sand the chess pieces before they dyed them. It turns out that these boards take 2 weeks to make, and the guys got them for around $10 each.
We returned to Steps Campsite for lunch, but dropped off Jon, Brendan, Dennis, and Jason at a local bar called "The Third World Pub". The chessboard guys said it was a great place to eat and drink. The rest of us went back to the campsite for lunch and to lay on the beach. The beach-laying didn't last for long as it was cold and windy.
Sign on the beach at Lake Malawi
View from camp
Special Guest Appearance from Jon:
So after the market, 3 of the Aussies and I decided to have the bus-truck drop us off at a local bar (very local, but we did manage to get even more local later but just keep reading). We each had a few beers with some of the villagers and then decided to take them up on their offer of a tour of the village. It turns out that one of the sons of the villager leader was one of our guides. he took us to see his sister's hut. His sister is the village's moonshiner! The moonshine is something of a corn mash. After getting a "tour" of the facilities and sampling the products, we decided we had to have 4 bottles. So for about 700 Kwatcha ($9.50) we had 4 liters of rocket fuel. we also stopped by the corn mill, which is a big deal since with electricity the villagers don't have to use a mortar pestle to mill the corn by hand.
So where was I? Oh, after the corn mill we dicided that we wanted to see where the villagers go for beers. Let's just say that this was an enlightening experience. As near as I can recall, the bar was just called "Chikbuku Bar". The locals drink a brew called Chikbuku. It comes in a cardboard carton - sort of like orange juice. It's also called "Shake-Shake", which are also the instructions on the carton.
We ended up being a group of myself, Dennis, Brendan, and Jason and at least 10 villagers. We ordered 20 Shake-Shakes (25 KW each, about $.30). Shake-Shake is made using the remnants of corn meal which is fermented with yeast and all packaged up in a carton. The corn meal is still in the mix when packaged, hence the instructions to "Shake-Shake!"
The cartons were all set on the ground in the middle f our group with the bottles of spirits we had purchased earlier. After the barmaid cut the top off of a few Chikbuku, and those were passed around, the village drunk wanted to get into the moonshine. Unfortunately for Dennis he was sitting beside the "Professional Drinker" who seemed to know how to make the most of the booze. Needless to say, Dennis had to match the drink shots 1:1 since he was sitting beside him and got "quite pissed" (that's English for drunk).
After bit we eventually had to avail ourselves to the bar's "restroom". I say "Restroom" since an open hole in the ground can't be called a toilet. Words alone do not adequately deI have to say is lscribe the facilities. We commented that we really should photograph each of these "restrooms". The Aussies thought that this would make a nice calendar! Boucher, all I have to say is that you would not enjoy yourself there. l :) We're still considering photographing the toilets.
Next was the 5K walk back to the camp where our "guides" tried to get us to give them our clothes, shoes, money, basically anything that wasn't nailed down. Dennis committed to giving them "something", so he rummaged through his rugby mate's (Matt's) bad and game them some shoes and called it a day!
Having survived the tour but missing lunch, I headed to the restaurant at the hotel next to the campsite and had the best cheeseburger I may ever have eaten.
Stay tuned for my next guest appearance.:)