March 10 - Australia: Fraser Island, Queensland
Jon and I both went for runs this morning. Since he's been ill, he hasn't run for a while so he decided to ease himself back into his running routine with an easy 15-miler this morning. Piece of cake. The weather was nice and cool and the path along the esplanade was a lovely one. When Jon got back from his run, he sent me on a photo mission while he showered up. He said that there was a huge field of trees with massive fruit bats there. So I went to check it out.
He wasn't kidding! The bats were the biggest I'd ever seen, and the sound of them as they hung from the branches was deafening. He said he ran by the area and had to turn around and get closer to find out what all the noise was about.
Garlic, anyone?
After the bat field, we packed up the truck and went to Rivers Head to catch our 10:15 barge to Fraser Island. The barge wasn't very big, but it was full of four-wheel-drive vehicles and excited campers. By 11:00, we landed at Wanggoolba Creek and were on our way.
Fraser Island
Jon was like a kid in a candy store. He's so cute when he has an opportunity to take the truck off the beaten path. So this was right up his alley, and was the main reason we bought the truck. The first hour of our bumpy drive was through rain forest as we crossed from the west side of the island to the east side. The roads are really sand paths worn down by four wheel trucks and buses. There's probably a maintenance crew which keeps certain parts passable, but for the most part it was definitely four-wheel-drive-only territory. The paths are wide enough for one truck at a time, although there was the occasional pull-over area to allow for passing or when facing an oncoming vehicle. Trucks going downhill, by the way, have the right of way.
A Grown Man's Playground
Jon mentioned at one point - when he stopped smiling long enough to talk - that the paths were much like the go-cart tracks at Disney World. Because of the way 4WD tires have formed the paths, the center is filled with sand and the tracks on either side are worn deep. So on softer parts, he could let go of the steering wheel and let the path lead the truck. He kept chuckling and said, "This is just like Disney World!".
Disney Go-Cart Tracks
And in truth, this island really is a grown man's amusement park. As we occasionally pulled over for oncoming traffic, it was easy to see the trend of driving around: the driver was always a man, usually with his wife/girlfriend sitting indulgently in the passenger seat. And, as we waved at each other upon passing, the man invariably sported a big, goofy grin on his face. Much like the one Jon was wearing for most of the day. And we women would trade smiles that bordered on eye-rolling.
Lunch At Lake McKenzie
We stopped for lunch at Lake McKenzie, which was accessible by a very narrow, wavy, hilly path that Jon loved. When we got to the lake's parking lot, it was filled with Troopers, Range Rovers, Defenders, Cherokees, and Surfs. And everyone was tailgating before hitting the lake. We decided to pack up our lunch and eat it on the lake. The Lake was just beautiful - turquoise waters and white sand. We found a nice shady spot under a tree and took out the makings of our turkey wraps. As I was cutting up the cheese, we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a colony of big black ants who wanted our food. Evidently, this is why everyone else was tailgating in the parking lot. So we went back to the truck and had our lunch on the back of the Toyota.
Seventy-five Mile Beach
The entire east coast of the island is a flat sandy beach that's perfect for driving. It took us about 1/2 hour to get there from the lake, but it was worth the wait. Driving on it is much like being in a car commercial, and Jon was absolutely thrilled. The shoreline was gorgeous - 75 miles of wide, flat, beach and big powerful waves far off the shore. We hadn't really thought about it until then, but we haven't seen actual waves in a long time. Because it was protected by the reef, Cairns is a very quiet bay. So the sight of waves has again sparked Jon's interest in learning how to surf.
View of 75-Mile Beach from the Truck
But not today. Today we were just two people cruising along a beautiful beach in our slick 4WD. At one point, I got out of the car and filmed Jon driving past me on the beach. (Our digital camera takes 30 second shorts, but they're too big to upload to the website). He wasn't satisfied with the first take, we so had to do it all again. After the second take, as he drove to pick me up, I did a number of "Oh-What-A-Feeling-Toyota" jumps for him. Good thing that wasn't immortalized on camera!
We also filmed another short of Jon turning figure eights in the sand. Quality filming, which many of you will be forced to sit through whenever we come home.
The beach between Happy Valley and Dundubara is not only a "road" but also an airplane landing strip. Our "Fraser Island" map and info guide has a reminder to all drivers that airplanes have the right of way.
Uhhhhh..... Duh.
Airplane Crossing
At any given time, we could see anywhere between 1-5 other trucks on the beach. But usually we saw none and had the whole place to ourselves. There was a bit of congestion in one area where a wild dingo had wandered onto the beach. Then, there were three of us trucks vying for quality photo positions. It was like a Serengeti Safari all over again.
I did get to drive for a bit, which was heaps of fun. You get a feeling of absolute freedom with a little twist of naughtiness thrown in. But I gave the wheel back to Jon because he was becoming a back-seat-four-wheeler and it was easier just to let him have his toy back.
Maheno Wreck
We made a scenic stop at the Maheno Wreck. The Maheno is on the beach between Eli Creek and The Pinnacles. Here's what our guide map has to say about it:
"The Maheno is a trans-Tasman passenger liner which also served as a hospital ship during World War I. Sold for scrap metal to Japan, it was being towed northwards on July 9, 1935 when it lost rudder control and came ashore in cyclonic conditions. Though irrecoverable, it gained a new job in World War II as a practice bombing target. After many decades of pounding waves and corroding salt, the wreck is just a sinking, crumbling, rusting relic of its former self.... As well as being a poignant sight, the stark, rusty colors mean great photos, especially when the Maheno glows red with the sunset."
In Front of the Maheno Wreck
(A bit blurry because I positioned the camera on the truck - which was running)
Jon found it ironic that the ship was being sold to Japan as scrap metal - probably for Japanese ships later used in the war. Instead, it was poetic justice that it was used as target practice to beat them.
But it wouldn't be a Connal trip without a trauma, so here goes....
Quality Time at Indian Head
As we reached the northern-most end of 75 Mile Beach, the beach ended at a massive set of cliffs called Indian Head. Here, there was a veer-off toward the inner island and campsites. Our site - Waddy Point - was only about seven miles away. So we veered off along the sandy path and suddenly found ourselves in some very deep sand. Then, we found ourselves slowing down and eventually coming to a complete stop.
Stuck. Shit.
Jon shifted the 4WD to low and tried to climb out of the hole, but no luck. We tried to reverse but still no good. So we about digging ourselves out. This must be a popular sticking point, because the rangers had obviously mixed small bits of wood in the sand to add traction. We used some of this wood to dig the sand out. Still, the truck wouldn't move. And the more we tried to get out, the deeper the truck burrowed in. Looking under the truck, the chassis was all but under the sand. That can't be good.
Not Going Anywhere Anytime Soon
Long story short: two hours later, we were still there. The sun was setting, the wind was blowing more sand, and our moods were swinging erratically. We had run the emotional gamut: patience, exasperation, anger, frustration, persistence, annoyance, fury, until we were finally at a complete loss for what to do or feel. Jon had let air out of the tires for more traction. We had piled heaps of loose wood beneath the tires as well. Pushing hadn't helped, and we were COVERED in sand from multiple digging attempts. And surprisingly, we had seen only one other truck which had passed us in the beginning when we were still feeling confident. So we decided that Jon would walk on ahead and look for help, and I would stay with the truck.
After a few minutes of waiting, I happened to glance up at the cliffs and saw some people on top of Indian Head. Hoping to get to them, I started to run up the rocky path. 3/4 of the way there, I glanced back at the beach and saw two trucks making their way to our location. Of course - two hours without seeing a soul - now some trucks show up and I'm on a cliff. So I bolted back down again tripping once and scraping my foot pretty badly. Unfortunately, the trucks were gone by the time I made it to the sand. Figures.
Then I saw another truck heading my way, so I waved them down. It was a nice older man and his wife. I asked them if they were headed to a campsite, and they said yes, so I asked if they would let a ranger know that we were stuck. The nice man smiled and said, "Why don't we just pull you out?" Then they laughed at the shocked expression that crossed my face. So they backed up to get some speed and pulled through the sand a ways in front of the truck. The man - Dan - came out with a snap strap and connected it between his truck and ours. Jon had shown up by this point and took Dan's air gauge to check the tire pressure to make sure the air was low enough.
Two minutes later, we were out. I don't think I've ever been so happy. Dan unhooked us and told us to follow them to Waddy Point. So we happily followed them for the next few miles. Jon and I kept taking deep breaths, and sighing with relief. It was almost palpable.
Unfortunately, the truck had other feelings. It was making a very unattractive clanking noise whenever we turned the wheels. Very, very unattractive. And the clanking tended to shake the whole truck. Not good at all.
Waddy Point Campsite
But we followed them all the way to Waddy Point, where they turned off toward the "shed" they said they were staying in for the next two weeks. They gave us directions to some nice camping spots "off the beaten track" on the beach. So we waved goodbye and continued on to find the campsite.
Through some experimenting, we ascertained that the clanking occurred only in four-wheel-drive and during turns. Could be very problematic and not something we wanted to put to the test. So we decided the tomorrow would not be a day of exploration, but rather a day of getting back to the mainland. Such a shame to have our highly-anticipated trip come to a premature end, but we didn't feel like ending up stranded in some remote part of the island.
We set up our tent in a little nook off the beach amidst a swarm of tenacious mozzies. (Australian for mosquito). Then we drove up to the main campsite to find the showers. Nine minutes of hot water cost $1.50 and was worth every penny. I swear I had sand in every pore of my body.
After our showers, we drove back down to the beach and had dinner. Since it was too late and too dark to look for firewood (and because we were too tired to care) we sat in the car and ate beef stew. Cold. Right out of the can. It wasn't bad, either! After our scrumptious dinner, we retired to the tent.