9/27: VAV to AKL to MEL to LAX to JFK

Posted Posted in Tonga
End of vacation sucks. End of vacation + 3 hr layover + lounges closed until 4AM = Take Me Back To Tonga.
End of vacation sucks. End of vacation + 3 hr layover + lounges closed until 4AM = Take Me Back To Tonga.


That moment when, after 4 airports and 30+ hrs travel, you disassemble the bathroom air freshener for your clothes. The woman next to me LAX-JFK will be grateful.
That moment when, after 4 airports and 30+ hrs travel, you disassemble the bathroom air freshener for your clothes. The woman next to me LAX-JFK will be grateful.


9/26: Departure Day: Mounu to Vavau’a to Tongatapu

Posted Posted in Sightseeing, Tonga

Last Morning on Mounu

Our last morning included breakfast, packing, swapping pictures, and leaving. In that order.

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Mounu Dining Area
09262014 Mounu (3)
Mounu Dining Area
09262014 Last Breakfast
Last Breakfast Together
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Allan Bowe – always looking for humpbacks
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Fale Taha – the name of our cabin
09262014 Goodbye Mounu
Goodbye Mounu


After breakfast and packing up, Allan took us on the boat to Vavau’a, where we caught our flight to Tongatapu.  Laura was staying overnight in Tongatapu, but the rest of us would catch a late flight to our various locations (for me that was to Auckland).  So we spent our last day together, taking in the Tongatapu sites.

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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes
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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 1
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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 2
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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 3
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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 4
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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 5
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Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 6
09262014 Blowholes (47)
Mapu’a ‘a Vaea Blowholes – 7
09262014 Heidi at Blowhole by Indra
Heidi at Mapu’a ‘a Vaea (photo by Indra)
09262014 Group at Blowholes (1)
Serene, Heidi, Laura, Gary, and Indra at Mapu’a ‘a Vaea
09262014 3 Headed Coconut Tree (3)
Tongatapu’s World Famous “Three-Headed Coconut Tree”
09262014 3 Headed Coconut Tree (6)
Headed Coconut Tree
09262014 Chinese Dinner
Delicious Chinese Dinner
09262014 TGP Airport
Ginger’s Last Moment: “Don’t Push The Red Button”
09262014 TGP Airport (2)
And… we’re off.

9/25: Whales Day 7

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga


09252014 Sunrise


09252014 Breakfast Al Fresco
Breakfast Al Fresco with Eck and Serene

We had to say goodbye to Eck at 7AM – he left early to get back to Singapore for his daughter and a birthday party. People leaving early is always a sign that vacation is coming to an end.

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Morning Bird Hunt

We had a 9AM boat time once Alan got back from town. Like the day before, there were more swells and lots of wind. Luckily, we had a few drops with a mama, baby and escort. On the first drop they turned and swam right by us – practically beneath Gary – it was so beautiful. On the second drop they swam beneath us.  And on the third, they swam past and away.

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Mama and Baby in the Reef – Rough Waves


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Mama, Baby, and Escort


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Mama and Baby


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Breach (photo by Laura)


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Showing Off for the Boat (photo by Laura)


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Fun Breach (photo by Laura)
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Docking at Mounu


Alan joined us for dinner and told us the story of how he get to the King of Tonga to agree to sell him Mounu Island. He gave him “a pig and two fish” – which we all agreed would be an excellent name for his memoir.

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Alan – “A Pig And Two Fish”


09252014 Wine (2)
My Wine Marker


09252014 Storytime


09252014 Storytime (5)


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Gary’s Storytime: All About Ginger


09252014 Crab Hunt (4)
Crab Hunt


9/24: Whales Day 6

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga

We did a lot of fishing from the boat. They caught a marlin but it broke free before it could be reeled in.

09242014 Daily Catch (1)
Marlin Fishing


09242014 Rough Toothed Dolphins
A wonderful school of rough toothed dolphins


09242014 Rough Toothed Dolphins (1)
Rough Toothed Dolphin Tails


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Gary and The Blue Fin Fish


09242014 Gary and Fish (3)


09242014 Ma'ata and Fish (1)
Ma’ata and Fish


Today was rough, windy, and bumpy with little to no whales. At the end of the day we got a call from another boat that they had a friendly mother/calf pair, but by the time we got there they had moved too close to a reef.  With the waves as fierce and rolling, Alan couldn’t get the boat close enough to let us in safely. If one of us got washed up on the reef there would be no way to get to us without damaging the boat. Such a shame, because the calf was essentially a big puppy dog who wanted to play. He kept rolling over onto his back and showing us his big white belly. It would have been fun to play in the water with him. A few times he came up from the water with his mouth open as if feeding. Pretty amazing, and something we’d not seen yet.

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Calf Mouth Open


09242014 Whale Puppy Cropped
I Am A Big Puppy. Please Come In and Play With Me.

We got back to the island very late – around 4:00 – and we all disappeared from each other, tired of the day and the long ride back.

Daily Mounu Pic


09242014 Bedtime Stories
Double Storytime

Gary’s Storytime: Since we skipped Storytime last night, we had two stories to make up for.

09242014 Crab Hunting (2)
Got a Crab!


9/23: Whales Day 5

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga

Spoiler Alert – no whale time today. They were out there and looked playful, but each time we got close they’d dive and disappear.  There were a few breaches and a few tail slapping so we’d go nearer and they would quiet down and go. A fascinating part of the morning was a pair of juvenile males who frolicked together in the waves and showed off for us.  We tried to get in the water with them but they were only in the mood to show off for the boat.

09232014 Departure
Boat Time
09232014 Ideal Island
We passed the time by earmarking our own private islands
09232014 Tail
09232014 Playful Jueveniles (4)
Playful Juveniles
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Playful Whale
09232014 Fishing
09232014 Snorkelers
All Dressed Up… Again…
09232014 Mounu
Daily Mounu Shot

Fastest Dinner On Mounu

A sailboat anchored off the island, and the couple came to the restaurant for dinner. They were rather loud and annoying, so we whale-watchers silently agreed to skip Gary’s Storytime and hurried to the beach for a crab hunt.

09232014 Humpback in Distance
Humpback Passing The Island


09232014 Arta
Empty Arta


09232014 Crab Hunt
Otto Otto!


09232014 Milky Way OK
My Attempt: Long Exposure of the Milky Way

9/22: Whales! Day 4

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga
09222014 Whale Time (1)
Whale time!


We were in the water within 30 minutes, as a mother and calf were just off the island.  Mom was relaxed and laid-back, and the little girl calf was shy but curious. As we slowly approached we noticed how far the calf explored from Mom and how Mom just relaxed under water.  She’d go down to about 60 feet for a snooze.  And while she rested, the calf would hang with her, come up for a breath, check out us snorkelers, circle around the boat and play, come back to see us, and then go down to Mom.  She’d do this three or four times until Mom finally, slowly came up for a breath. Then they’d both swim for a bit, and Mom would go down for another rest.  And we’d repeat the entire routine together.  We stayed with them for an hour and a half – the maximum to be with a Mom and calf – and then left so an incoming boat could experience them.

09222014 Inquisitive Calf Perspective


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Inquisitive Calf


09222014 Inquisitive Calf SM


09222014 Inquisitive Calf (26)


09222014 Mama and Calf (1)
Mama and Calf


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Swimming away

As if they knew we were leaving, Mom and calf both breached to say goodbye.


09222014 LL Go Pro Breach
Breach (photo by Laura)
09222014 Selfie (2)
It gets cold on the surface


A few lessons that stuck today:

1) Always find and stay close to the Mom. The calf will always come back to her, and if you chase after the calf you’ll just end up kicking all over the place

2) Let the calf come to you. Otherwise he/she will get scared away and the mom will swim off

In the afternoon we usually return to the island around 2:30 or 3:00. Tony and Emi always go snorkeling, and Eck and Serene often do as well. I find that I’m usually more inclined to nap and read. Lazy of me, but there you have it.

Gary’s Storytime: Ginger and the monkeys at the zoo

Our evening routine of Gary’s storytime accompanied by tequila continued. As did our crab hunting on the beach.

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Gettin’ low on the Arta


09222014 Gary Storytime (1)
Gary and Arta


09222014 Crab Hunt
Crab Hunters

9/21: No Whales on Sunday

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga

 Day of Rest

According to Tongan law, Sunday is a mandatory day of rest. No boating. No whales. No leaving Mounu Island.  Though we were allowed a sleep in, I woke up at 6:30 and had a sunrise walk with Otto all around the island.

09212104 Sunrise
09212014 Otto Sunrise (1)
Sunrise Walk with Otto


09212104 Whale Spine Path
Path to the dining area, lined by the sperm whale spine


09212104 Bread
Best bread ever


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View from the cabin


After breakfast we all had a quiet morning of reading, writing, and photos. I spent 3 hours sitting on the deck and finally writing my journals from Uganda in June – all to the sound of waves crashing against the beach.

Afternoon Snorkel

After lunch, Laura, Eck and I snorkeled all the way around the perimeter of the island. Parts of the water were very cold – Tony would later tell us that he can’t remember a day where the water of the island was this cold.  But we saw some fun little things: a sea cucumber “heat run”. Lots of fish. Laura found a little eel, which I promptly scared away trying to photo it with my wide-angle lens.

09212014 Isle de Laura (1)
Isle de Laura


09212014 Sea Cucumber Heat Run
Sea Cucumber Heat Run


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Eck and Coral


Water shortage: Mounu Island (and Tonga as a whole) is experiencing a draught and fresh water is at critical levels.  So we’re especially focused on water conservation and take “cabin showers” rather than full showers.  We still drink all we need to, but it’s a healthy activity to be forced to think of what we take for granted on a regular basis.

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09212014 Serene and Emi
Serene and Emi


Gary’s Storytime: This evening’s story was all about Ginger’s first day of school and pancakes.

09212014 Arta


09212014 Storytime
Ginger’s First Day of School


09212014 Crab Hunting (16)
Otto Found a Crab


9/20: Whales! Day 3

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga

I woke up just after the sun came up after 6:00 and made my way to the dining area to journal and organize pictures.  There’s really nothing better than typing away with a coffee and the silence of only the surf.

09202014 Morning Journal (1)
Morning coffee and journaling


09202014Eck and Otto (2)
Eck and Otto


The whales were evasive this day.  Lots of boating around and not finding any whales, or finding whales with too many other boats.  At one point we found a mama, a calf, and an escort, but they deliberately turned and swam away from our direction. After 10 minutes of following and hoping they’d slow and sit, we got the message and left them alone.

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Whale Watching


09202014 Waiting For A Breath (2)
Waiting for the whale to come up for a breath


It seemed that the whales just didn’t want to play with us.  I teased Serene that I’d have nothing to write in the journal, so I’d have to dedicate this entry to her “Rape and Pillage of the Ocean”. Luckily she was saved. After lunch and almost time to head in, we were saved by the other Mounu Island boat – on loan to another service – who called to say they had a mother and calf who were close to the surface, would dive and swim, and then stay close to the surface again. It was the same mother/calf from the day before though a bit friendlier… until we got in.  Then they swam.  Each group of us had about 60 seconds in the water before they dove, and then we tracked them for a while from the boat.  Luckily, the calf was feeling energetic and showboaty, giving us a lot of photo ops.

09202014 Mama Calf Swimming Away (1)
Going… going… gone.


09202014 Calf Breach Cropped

09202014 Calf Breach (24)

An hour of tracking, they slowed down and we tried for one more swim. Magical. Mama and baby just sat in the water, completely still. He was completely under her head and would occasionally come up for a breath.  One time he surfaced about 10 feet from me. Mama gave us a good 15 minutes with them – and it was extraordinary.  I’ll bounce around the ocean all day long if this is how it ends.



And... yay!
Mama and calf


09202014 Mama and Calf (5) Edit
Mama and Calf


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Mama and Calf


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Me and the calf


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Curious calf


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Calf tail


09202014 Mama Edit
Mama, just chillin’


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Calf diving


09202014 Tony At Work
Tony at work


09202014 Mounu
Daily Mounu


09202014 Sandbar
Resting on the deck


09202014 Red Flowers (2)
Mounu Island Dining Area


09202014 Tony and Emi (1)
Emi and Tony


09202014 Devices
What sunset? We have emails.


09202014 Serene and Otto
Serene and Otto


09202014 Laura


Dinnertime Traditions:

Arta Tequila: We’ve started a few group-driven traditions for ourselves here in the last whale spotting Tonga trip.  One is Tony’s bottle of Arta tequila, which he was gifted earlier this season from the owner of the company. Most of us associate tequila with crazy nights and horrible hangovers, but a good agave-based tequila like this is a delicious thing.  So we celebrate each evening with a round of drinks and I track the end-of-night bottle level with a camera shot.

09202014 Arta (1)
Nightly Arta pic


Gary’s Storytime: The second tradition is a new one (here on day #3 together) which we kicked off the night before when we learned that Gary had written a collection of children’s stories.  We made him promise to tell us a story this night, which explains how we ended up sipping tequila and listening to the first chapter of Ginger and Mrs Peabody.

09202104 Gary Storytime
Gary’s Storytime


Crab Hunting: The final tradition – not unique to our group – is taking Otto crab-hunting. Otto knows it’s coming, so he starts circling after the dessert plates are cleared, his little feet tapping and his nose huffing as he waits impatiently for us to go to the beach.  The process of the crab hunt takes a few different elements:

1) Running down the beach with our solar-recharable lights

2) Spotting out the crab holes in the sand along the shoreline

3) Calling his name with great enthusiasm, “Otto Otto!  Otto Otto!” and frantically pointing to the hole

4) Waiting with anticipation as Otto sniffs the hole to see if anyone is home

5) Laughing as he digs and digs and digs and eventually comes up with a crab, which he then chases all over the beach

6) Moving OttoOtto along when the crab starts to play dead in defense “Come on Otto!  Otto Otto!”

It’s the last thing we do before turning in for the night, which is usually around 9:30.

09202104 Otto Hunting
Otto, crab-hunting


09202014 Heat Run
Hermit Crab Heat Run


9/19: Whales! Day 2

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga
09192014 Sunrise


09192014Gary - Boat Time
Boat Time


Beautiful weather – again. But this day was very little water time and a lot of boating around the islands. No complaints there; the scenery was gorgeous and the company fun.

09192014 Calf Breach (8)
Happy calf


We ran across a number of mother/calf pairs out in the blue, but we also had a number of boats cluttering the ocean and aggravating the whales enough so they dove.  We also had a few heat runs at a distance. But everything was fast moving so we had little chance to get in.  There was one set of mama/calf in a little cove that we found, long after lunch, but they were evasive.  Each time we went in the water they went deep. We could see the white of the calf’s belly but it was down, down, down.  And when they came up for air they came up and dove deep again.

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Big White Bellies
09192014 Calf Breach (27)
Mama and Calf
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Happy calf, and mama’s belly


09192014 Watching
Ma’ata and Alan, watching for whales


09192014 Watching (1)
Whale Watchers


09192014 All Dressed Up (1)
All Dressed Up, But Nowhere To go


09192014 Scenery (1)


09192014 Coy Calf
Coy Calf, diving


09192014 Mounu (2)
Daily Mounu Pic


09192014 Heidi and Mounu
Happy Heidi


09192014 The Girls
Heidi, Serene, and Emi


We were dry, but happy. We usually returned to the island around 2:30 in the afternoon and spend the rest of the day snorkeling, napping, and reading – in no particular order. This day was sand dollar hunting with Serene and Eck, then reading until the sun went down.

09192014 Shrimpish hole (1)
Shrimpish hole


09192014 Sardine Run (1)
Sardine Run


09192014Mounu Underwater
Mounu and the Sardine Run


09192014Quiet Time
Quiet sundonwer



Dinner was sashimi from the fresh catch the night before, followed by the lobster tail and our (now traditional) tequila shots.  Lots of laughter at the table tonight, sharing stories about each others’ children and teasing Gary about some cartoon character named “Peggy Pig” or something. Then we discovered he has a collection of children’s stories in his head.

Super-fresh sushi




The evening was closed up with a rousing crab-hunting round with the ever-ready Otto. He found a few and took his frustrations out on the crustaceans – having been spurned by his doggie girlfriend that day in town. Poor pup.

09192014 Crab Hunters (6)
Crab Hunters


9/18: Whales! Day 1

Posted Posted in Adventure, Tonga

I woke early to enjoy a quiet coffee in the dining area with my journals. Mounu was a peaceful, lovely place. With really delicious coffee.

09182014Coffee Please
Coffee, please!

After breakfast was served we loaded up the Phoenix and took off for a day of whale-watching and – hopefully – swimming with them.  The process involved Allan driving the boat with his head out the top; and Tony, Emi, and Ma’ata on the top level watching for the slightest glimpse of activity.

Tonga: you are here.  Allan drives the boat and whale-watches at the same time.

Very soon they spotted something Tony said he’d only seen once before: about 4-5 whales breaching over and over again. All that activity turned into a heat run: the female expresses interest by slapping the water with her pectoral fins over and over again. Then the males come running.  What’s next is a pursuit in the water as the males give chase and she breaches over and over again.

The water was rough and rocky, and there were 2-3 other boats out there with us.

09182014Breach (9)
09182014Breach (12)
09182014Breach W Boat (1) Edit
Heat run
09182014Breach W Boat (4) Cropped
Multiple breaches

Next we headed inland to calmer waters and to search for a mother/calf combo.  What we found was a “singer” – a whale sitting still, upside down, and singing. He flapped the surface a few times with its fluke. When we got in the water it stood still for a moment then slowly moved down and tilted horizontally. Out of nowhere another whale showed up and the two of them disappeared off into the blue.

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09182014Breach (25) Edit

09182014Fluke (6) Edit

09182014 UW Singer (3) Edit
Singer, solo
09182014 UW Double (4)
Singer and friend
09182014Mounu Island (3)
Mounu Island

We arrived back at the island around 2PM (lunch was on the boat) – which gave plenty of time to nap, snorkel, or both.  I opted for a snorkel out in the shallows.

09182014 Sardines
A school of sardines always hovered over the grass off the island. We called this our “Sardine Run”
09182014 Vino

Dinner was a re-cap of the day, and how well we did (or didn’t) swim.  And also a very in-depth conversation of how the academic community publishes papers and studies, and yet doesn’t spend any time out or in the water with the whales.  They come down for 2 weeks, take photos of flukes, and consider that a study. They don’t use the resources of operators or the people who are out there every day.  And wouldn’t it be interesting if they did?

09182014 Fresh Catch (3)
NIghtly fish and lobster delivery
Otto, the crab-hunting schauzer